Tiger's Nest

Brief synposis from the travel book of Taktshang Pelphug or "Tiger's Nest". According to tradition, in the eighth century, Guru Rinpoche came to Taktshang, flying on the back of a tigress from Kurtoe. He meditated for 3 months in a cave at Taktshang and converted the Paro valley to Buddhism. He used the religious cycle of the Kagye to subjugate the Eight Categories of Evil Spirits during his stay there.

On the hiking side, the temple hangs on the side of a cliff, 800 meters above the valley below. You can hardly see the path leading up to it, making it even more incredible. It's one of the most venerated places of pilgrimage in the Himalayan world because Guru Rinpoche basically started everything. There are 13 holy places at the site, the most visited one is the cave where Guru RInpoche meditated.

I'd heard that it was a really scary ascent, but it was just fine. No places where it was straight down that there weren't railings and I didn't even have a moment of worry, my vertigo has definitely mellowed, but there was also vegation which helped disguise the height. And it's just incredible. All but the main cave's treasures were burnt in April 1998 which was horrifying for many people in many countries. Luckily, the government had photos of almost everything and they've restored and rebuilt it all. Unbelievable how they got the materials up there because just a horse can go up, no engines of any sort. And when you get close to the top, it's a very narrow trail with 700 steps up and down that are very steep at the end.

Rick and I went up with a monk, LopenSherab, whose name I can remember because his smile is cherubic. He was great and answered EVERY question Rick had about you name it. Rick was circumspect and didn't ask anything that pushed boundaries, but it was interesting.

We then went into my brain fog as we saw revered statues and paintings over and over and I'd guess - Guru RInpoche? No! guardian of the East. Guardian of the East? No! Guru Rinpoche and so on. Beautiful though and fascinating. Rick, obviously, knows way more than I do, but tonight after dinner, he said I think I'm about out of room for more Buddhist facts.

Then back, quick change to formal and off to dinner with the Queen Mother, same as we had been with at the astrology monastery. Again, had great conversations, learned a lot more about her initiative to empower women generally to speak up and know their voice is important. Also her push to support abused women and children. I asked the head of the program how karma fit into the picture. She said, yes, the women come and say, I must have done something wrong to be born as a woman and even more so to be abused. This is my destiny. They turn the argument around to say, don't you want to break the cycle? Do you love your husband? If so, if you don't work to change the situation, then he will be coming back to be an abused woman. Interesting isn't it? Gives them some power and permission to change their lives.

So that was the day. Long days and great.

Looking up from the start

The 700 steps go down and up this chasm on the way over

We're more than half-way there and it's still WAY over there

Giant prayer wheel, half way up. Imagine carrying this up to Royal Arch, kind of same idea. On the right, Sherab and me.

Looking up

Prayer Flags

On the Tiger's Nest Trail

Two buildings on the left house prayer wheels that are turned by water running underneath, other is a chorten for local deity.

Waterfall

Waterfall created when the tiger, who was actually one of Guru Rinpoche's consorts, threw her rosary (similar, but different from Christian), at the rock and created the waterfall. On the more prosaic side, Rick saw it and said, well that's why it's here. Water!