Reb's Travels: Druk wangyal chorten

Says it all

There are inserts here from our friend Wikipedia, so just skip if boring. I can't remember everything so I'm trying to put in details before I go somewhere so that I can remember pieces.

The chorten was wonderful, interesting to see, but the amazing piece about this pass is that it overlooks the Himalayas towards China. For a tiny country like Bhutan, looking at that border must bring at least an illusion of safety.

Built in 2004 to "...celebrate the stability and progress that His Majesty has brought to the nation," this hill of 108 religious buildings in the middle of the pass reflects Bhutan’s spiritual and artistic traditions.

I already wrote about our 5 and 1/2 hour bus ride to Panakha, seeing the chorten on the way. The Dzong really is spectacular. We didn't get to see all of it. Only because a woman who is very connected was with us, were we allowed in the administrative side of the Dzong. The King is (was now, 7am this am) getting married there and the monks were tromping hither and yon with different robes and instruments getting ready. Watching the countryside getting ready for the wedding processional through the country was incredible. It's like a country-wide party with grins and did-you-knows and photos everywhere. No conflict here like when William and Kate were getting wed. The King is so beloved, and for good reason, that it really does feel like a celebration with love for him and his beautiful bride. See? It infects you, I'm gushing.

The Punakha Dzong, also known as Pungtang Dechen Photrang Dzong (meaning “the palace of great happiness or bliss”[1][2]) is the administrative centre of Punakha dzongkhag in Punakha, Bhutan. Constructed by Zhabdrung (Shabdrung) Ngawang Namgyal in 1637-38,[1][3] it is the second oldest and second largest dzong in Bhutan and one of its most majestic structures.[1][4] The Dzong houses the sacred relics of the southern Drukpa Kagyu school including the Rangjung Kasarpani, and the sacred remains of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal and Terton Padma Lingpa. Punakha Dzong was the administrative centre and the seat of the Government of Bhutan until 1955, when the capital was moved to Thimphu.[2][4][5]

According to a local legend, the sage Guru Rinpoche prophesized that “a person named Namgyal will arrive at a hill that looks like an elephant”. Zhamdrup Namgyal found the peak of the hill, which appeared in the shape of trunk of an elephant as prophesized, and built the dzong in 1637-38.[5] Another legend tells how Zowe Palep, the architect, had a vision in a dream after the Zhamdrup Namgyal ordered him to sleep under a small structure which contained a statue of the Buddha, known as Dzong Chug (small dzong). In his dream, prompted by the psychic powers of the Zhamdrup, he had a clear vision of a palace for Guru Rinpoche. The vision was imprinted on the architect's mind, enabling him to conceive the plan for the Dzong without putting the vision on paper and to build it.[5] On the basis of the dream vision of the architect, the building of the Dzong was started in 1637 and completed in 1638, at the place where the Dzong Chug (small dzong), had existed. During this period, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal became the first religious-political leader, following his concerted efforts to unify the country into one unit as Bhutan. The dzong was consecrated in the name of Pungthang Dechen Phodrang. In 1639, a commemorative chapel was erected to house the arms seized from the Tibetans who were defeated by the Bhutanese on this spot. Zhabdrung also set up a monastic order with 600 monks (brought from Cheri Gompa of upper Thimpu valley) and he lived here till his death. The spire at the top of the utse (the dzong’s central tower or the main tower[4]) was added in 1676 by Gyaltsen Tenzin Rabgye–the abbot of the dzong. Further additions were made during the period 1744 to 1763, when Sherab Wangchuk was the ruler. A large Thangka known as chenma (great) thoundral of the Zhabdrung was donated to the Dzong by the Desi (ruler). This thangka is displayed during the Tsechu festival held once a year here. The Seventh Dalai Lama donated the brass roof for the dzong.[5]

Took us 2 hours to get back, traffic at a minimum and it felt like we flew. Went through one town gate where the whole village was lined up with offerings, flowers and instruments, practicing for the processional.

Dinner that night with the minister of culture, I think. The food was indescribable. I'll leave it at that. I sat with a very nice group and it was a VERY long dinner. At one point I just said, ok, y'all speak Chinese, y'all Japanese, you can talk to yourself in Bhutanese and I'll have a calm, quiet meditative dinner. Obviously, I knew most of them pretty well at that point. Then after another painful quiet period, I just mentally threw up my hands and said, ok we're going to play the what-if game. I can see my kids' eyes rolling as I write. I said if you could have a store, what would it be? It was one of the best parts of dinner. Turns out that LopenSherab, our cherubic monk, loves cartoons and would open a cartoon store. He loves Tom and Jerry and his eyes lit up when he asked if I had seen Kung Fu Panda. I'm cracking up again as I write. Then when we got to one of the Japanese architects, as he's manfully trying to wrestle with a piece of sausage (?), he said he'd open a sushi store. ONLY sushi. Again, we all cracked up. Again, general laughter when they saw my face after trying the seaweed soup. So there were moments.

Adorable

Road Etiquette...

Road etiquette, narrow road, two way, 1 and 1/2 lanes, when passing, blow horn, car/truck ahead will signal with left signal if ok/safe to pass and pull slightly over. If not safe, will signal with right signal and passing driver will wait until given left signal. Everyone follows this, no one has male ego of unconsciously stepping on the gas as soon as someone has temerity to try to pass. Always final toot of horn as passing to say thank you. Unbelievably civilized and feels safe on these cliff edge curvy roads.

Cedar forest

Took a few photos until she saw one she liked.

Prayer flags at chorten

At the Druk Wangyel chorten

Farmhouse

Typical farmhouse

Near Dzong we couldn't go to, helps women who have fertility problems

Himalayas

Inside Panakha monastery

Large prayer wheel

Hard to see, but kids sitting around a playing a game where they take turns running and turning the wheel. Kind of like the games our kids play... not.